DAVID KOMA AUTUMN/WINTER 2021 | PRESENTATION – FESCH.TV

FESCH.TV INFORMIERT:

For David Koma, the advent of 2021 ushered in a renewed sense of optimism. Between the record-time vaccine development and the revolutionary technology of Perseverance Mars Rover — there is no doubt that it is the scientific progress that inspires hope and constantly reshapes what our not-so-distant future looks like. 

Fashion designers are inherently future-facing, but for Koma, none have been as influential in their approach as Pierre Cardin. The news of his passing late last year set David on a path to a rediscovery of Cardin’s work in the 60’s era. The result – a retrofuturistic Autumn-Winter 2021 collection, with a nod to an inspirational figure from Koma’s artistic journey.

This season presents a signature blend of opulent evening wear and dynamic athleticism, elevating sportswear-inspired pieces into couture-esque items. Jersey jumpsuits, flared leggings and zip-up sweatshirts, inspired by jockey silks, are embellished with exquisite crystal embroidery. Form-fitting stretch knit pieces in bold blue and green are punctuated with statement oversized metal dome buttons.

The designer utilises juxtapositions to create a range that is both novel and timeless. Body-contouring dresses and separates are presented alongside oversized outerwear. 60’s silhouettes such as A-line capes meet ultra-modern shearling jackets of graphic proportions. Playful ruffles are added to otherwise precisely cut shapes. Contrasting textures are seen throughout: lustrous liquid sequin and high shine silver shearling are used alongside matte black leather, velvet, and bonded wool.

The 60’s influence is seen in graphic fabrics and details – a play on straight and curved lines. Geometric white and black jacquard is made into body contouring mini dresses, flared trousers, and oversized tailored jackets. Graphic flocked tan fabric is added in form of fitted tops and midis. Cutouts and opulent crystal embellishments, a key component in the designer’s DNA, appear in circular shapes, across mini skirts and sculptural cocktail dresses. Elsewhere, dramatic crystal chain link embellishments decorate garments instead of belts.
In the age of seemingly infinite possibilities of technology and science, the optimism of retrofuturism continues to be relevant. For Autumn-Winter 2021, the inspiration from the past, represents a shared sense of nostalgia, while a healthy dose of newness portrays a sense of hope in our future.